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  1. La historia es :el coche lo pasaron por banco con la repro q llevaba. Lo volvieron a dejar en estado original via OBD2y lo pasaron por el banco otra vez. Le cargaron el programa via obd2 y lo pasaron por el banco otra vez.

    Solo hay un dilema, y es q no me acuerdo si esos 210cv son a rueda o a motor. Las curvas aun las tiene los de REVO para el historial, me las pasaran esta semana.

     

    Yo creo q son a rueda, porque se hablaba de 234cv a motor, aplicaron una formula q hay para saber los cv al motor.Creo q Robo la sabe hacer. :D

  2. oido cocina!!! :p Me pongo manos a la obra.

     

    Odon:

    Por cierto, no suelo hacerlo...no se lo dejo ni a mi mujer :) .....a parte q las cosas de montar ni se piden ni se dejan.... :D pero por ser tu .. si quieres probar mi TT, solo has de darme un toque <_<

     

    Esta un poco super-vitaminado!!! :D

     

    Jorge el verdadero coche empieza por "P" y termina por "E"??? :D

  3. Bienvenido a este foro Jose!!! ;)

    Ya nos comentaras algo de tu TT...modelo ,opciones, extras...... y si ademas tiene alguna foto donde admirar tu maquina... a los de aqui nos gustan admirar fotos de TT´s. ;)

     

    JORGE!!!! apunta otro TT´ero mas!!!!A ver como podemos solucionar el tema hotel para Jose y acompañante.

    EOGC, al final vas a tener razon, vamos a llegar a los 35 TT´s . Y solo faltan 2 TT´s ;)

  4. Muy , pero q muy wapo todo lo q nos espera!!!! Si señor!!!!!

     

    Quisiera añadir q para las charlas sobre potenciacion, hay posibilidades q los señores de REVO esten presentes. Por lo q me han dicho, habra demos gratis para todos los q lo quieran instalar. Las demos son de prueba q duran 5 horas y luego se borran automaticamente quedandose el coche come estaba antes.

    Si lo ceeis opportuno y por qualquier cosa no creeis q sean buena idea, comentarmelo. Creo q algunos conocemos quien son . Lo digo para no crear "malos rollos".

    Chicos la repro una pasada!! B) El coche ha pasado por Banco 3 veces!! :)

    Una con la repro q llevava. luego en estado original, y luego con la repro de Revo. Muy profesional, me he quedado parado!!! Ya os comentare los valores obtenidos. IMPRESIONANTES!!!! :)

     

    Por el tema Kart , por mi no hay problema!!!Enhorabuena por todo y felicidades a Robo y EOGC.

  5. JORGEE!!!!DESPIERTAAA¨!!!! y dinos las buenas nuevas q nos traen EOGC Y Robo. :lol::lol:

     

    Me alegro porque parece q vuestra reunion en el Audiforum parece q ha sido positiva. :p Por que sino los "Emoticons" hablarian por su propia cuenta.....

     

    Mientras vosotros estabais reunidos, yo..... bueno mi firma lo dice todo :D:lol:

    Como dice el Bart Simpson: MOOOOLA!!!!!! :D

  6. Gracias PSQ!!!! acabo de enviar el mail con la actualizacion de los acabados. Ahora le toca a el dare respuesta sobre plazo de entrega. Le he comentado q ahora al ser mas cantidad de TTDA, a ver si se puesde ajustar un poquito mas con el precio. :):D A ver si hay suerte.!!!!

     

    Con el tema pago, ....en cuanto me conteste hablamos al respecto. Os mantengo informados!!

  7. Ok!!! gracias a todos!!! solo me faltan q me confirme PSQ el tono de su TTDA, si brillante o mate.

     

    JGG!!! no hay problema!!!! tambien lo he puesto en la lista!!! :D:)

     

    Por cierto, usando este convertidor de divisas, me sale q 235$ USD de envio, son 188.619 €.

    http://www.xe.com/ucc/es/

     

    Porfavor comprovadlo!!! Por lo q pone en el mail, si el lo manda a una solo direccion, el porte es de 45$USD . Si por el contrario ha de mandarlo a cada uno de nosotros el porte sube a 60$USD. ASI q si os parece bien, y si no tenies ninguna objecion q me lo mande a mi y yo me encargo de repartirlos a cada uno q lo haya pedido. A menos de q alguien quiera hacerlo , por mi ningun problema.

  8. Yo lo q te puedo decir es q despues de montar el peazo FMIC q llevo ahora , las temperaturas de colector de admision son muy bajas, de hecho lo compruebo a menudo, y es q despues de meterle caña , toco el colector, y es q ni noto el calor con la mano.

     

    Encambio la temperatura del bloque motor si q se calienta, no demasido, lo justo. Segun lo q me marca el clima sobre la Tº del auga suelo estar entre 89cº de maximo y 85 cº en estado normal. Creo q es un buen rango de temperatura, considerando todas las "pijadas" q llevo" :)

  9. Bueno ya he recibido respuesta de S.Schwing!!! Os lo pongo aqui para total trasparencia de la opreacion. !!!!

     

    Es largo, pero os pido q cogais 5 minutos para leerlo todo y intentad comprender lo q vai a adquirir. No quiero sorpresa despues :(:(

     

    JGG ya le he enviado un mail!!! Esperando respuesta!!! :o

     

    Juan Carlos...Hi! Yes Robo is very happy with his TTDA! I would be happy

    to make a batch for you in Spain. I have 2 black and a red tube prepared so

    delivery time would be pretty quick. I may need to order a few more filter

    elements though as I have 3 committed now. 2 weeks at the most to ship. I

    build these in my spare time and the next few weekends I have some things to

    do that will slow me up a little. Here is what I would do. For an order of

    3 they would be $235 US apiece + $60 shipping to one address. Shipping is

    $45 each so if I can consolodate a shipment to you it would save you money.

    I generally handle all this through Paypal. My adr. is

    seschwing@earthlink.net I would also need a list of the cars to be fitted

    so I can include the small MAF adapter if required. Here's the specs again.

    Let me know how you'd like to proceed!

     

    Steve

     

    TTDA Airbox construction details:

     

    Tube: Non-Brittle Phenolic Microseam 7.51 ID x 8 inches long

    Insulation: Fiber Tech 3/8" insulation with aluminum skin for reflective and

    absorptive heat handling

    Filter: K&N Inverted cone #RR-3003 w/polished cap, New with warranty card

    Lamination: Carbon fiber or carbon/kevlar weave. Laminated with Epoxy then

    Dupont clear coated.

    Stainless Version: T-304 Brushed stainless wrap. 26

    gauge

    Endcaps: 3/8 inch ply with Black carbon lamination

    Edging: Vinyl with aluminum reinforcement

    Intakes: (2) Spun aluminum, 2.5" OD, or custom to your spec.

    Clamp: Stainless

    Cold Start Filter: Foam, slip on

     

    "No Tools" disassembly for filter cleaning

    Construction and color pictures here:

    http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/cai_and_other_intak/

     

    Price: $250 in your choice of Black Carbon (gloss or matte finish), Moro

    Blue, Desert green or Red Carbon/Kevlar (Gloss only), OR brushed stainless

    verion (T-304, 26 gauge, #4 brushed finish) . Color swatches here:

    http://www.uscomposites.com/hybrids.html (note: colors darker when

    epoxied)

    Note: Since these are individually made, custom modifications can be

    incorporated

     

    Includes paypal and shipping within the continental US, Add $40 for shipping

    to the UK, $15 To Canada.

    Other quotes on request.

    Includes filter sock for the cold start breather line

    Does not include feed lines (see links below for sources)

     

    Specify 180 OR 225. 180 version will include silicone adapter sleeve.

     

    First Dyno reviews from Phill in the UK at a recent AMD "Rolling Road" day:

     

    After: Hi Steve, first I hope that you and your family and friends are safe

    and sound after the terrible storms .

    We had a rolling road shoot out at AMD today as you said the car is getting

    better and better the BHP was 272 and the torque 297lbs-ft , a lot of people

    were very inpressed and we had a hot day 30c , so many thanks again and

    might be some new orders on the way ?

    Best reguards,

    Phill

     

    Before: Hi Steve, my numbers before were 264 bhp 291 lbsft also fitted FMIC

    after these , but the really good part was I was run later in the day when

    it was hotter the early runners were not bad but the figures started

    dropping off as the day went on but not mine !!

    Cheers mate,

    Phill

     

    Performance Testimonial from Carlos in Puerto Rico:

    1/4 ET ---- 14.057

    1/4 MPH --- 94.56

     

    I'm sure that my car run in the 13's because when I did the run the gas tank

    was full(93 octane), that means too much weight, and my DV fluttering a bit.

    The TTDA make a huge difference. Before the TTDA I did 14.6. Thanks Steve

    for a great product. Yess...

     

    Late 02 TT225 Quattro Lake Silver Coupe...

    Mods for now are: APR 93Octane Chip, ECS Race N75, Hyperboost Adjustable DV,

    SAMCO Intake Hose and Upper Turbo Hoses, O.CT FMIC, TTSchwing TTDA, Forge

    Super High Flow Exhaust,

     

    Set-up for OEM 225 car :

     

    You won't be able to take full advantage of the design without having an

    FMIC and running feeds into the free'd up grill area, but you will see

    advantages in less heat soak, and a less restrictive intake. You may remove

    the plastic MAF vanes with this filter as it appears to supply a very clean

    flow of air to the MAF element. I currently have my vanes out. This will

    make a big difference (See the Autospeed article on Negative Boost

    http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0629 ) The filter end will

    fit directly on the MAF housing. Lubricate a little as it is a tight

    squeeze. The filter is sized so that no other support should be necessary.

    It will nestle right into the OEM airbox area. Run a short hose to the

    fender opening from the top flange. Feed through 6-8 inches or so. Route

    the bottom into the area behind the headlight. This will at least get you a

    little fresh air in there. I use 2.5 inch neoprene hose. Expensive, but

    better and more flexible than most. This can be sourced in bulk at

    http://www.racerpartswholesale.com (10 ft lengths only) ,

    http://www.pegasusautoracing.com (6 foot lengths), or by the foot at

    http://www.aircraftspruce.com (Best deal $42 for 10 feet) You'll need 6

    feet for a full feed system, 3 feet for the quick install method.

     

     

    FMIC (or 180) car:

     

    This is the best set-up but requires cutting a little metal if you want to

    get the dual pressure feeds up to the box. If you can settle for one

    pressure feed, no cuts are necessary. See Pic here:

    http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/cai_and_...ocut_feeds.html

    . Here's Ryans write-up on this:

    http://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/963116.phtml My Fotki pics show all

    these pretty clearly, so I won't go into a lot of detail.

    http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/cai_and_other_intak/ More feed detail

    in this album:

    http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/cai_and_...eding_the_ttda/ One

    hose up the fender liner side, and one up under the headlight. You can get

    the hose through here with the front end on. You may have to remove the

    battery box depending on how dexterous you are! Both end in some sort of

    collector in the lower grill. Mines a home-made, but commercial inlets are

    available.

     

    Note on early 2001 cars and earlier with Xenons: The Xenon ballasts on

    earlier cars are attached to the chassis under the lights, rather than on

    the actual light fixtures themselves. Because of this it may be impossible

    to route the headlight hose without removing the front end and headlight.

    The ballast needs to be relocated to allow for hose clearance.

     

    Install album of various pics from TTDA users:

    http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/cai_and_..._installs_from/

     

     

    Additional Install Notes:

     

    Depending on how you intend to install the air box, here are some tips,

    links and notes to help you along:

     

    Stock 225 or 180 (easy install method):

     

    1) remove the stock box

    2) lubricate the filter flange and clamp on to the MAF. Orientation of the

    box should be with the seam down and the intake ports at about a 60 degree

    angle

    3) Hose routing can be simple but you won't get the Ram air effect. You

    will get better flow and heat control though. Jeff Bipes installed his this

    way and pics and details were posted here:

    http://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/887991.phtml

    He used a relatively thick hose that does not look too flexible. I would

    highly recommend going with the high quality Neoprene as seen in my

    installs. Very flexible and should eliminate trimming sheet metal at the

    snorkle exit area.

    This stuff can be sourced at http://www.pegasusautoracing.com 2 1/2 inch

    part # 3620-2.50-6 foot for$34. Or http://www.aircraftspruce.com PN

    #05-29810 $4.10/ft. 6 feet will let you do even the more involved install

    later if you choose and it can be screwed together to lengthen cut pieces.

    4) Route 1 hose through the snorkle hole to get some fresh air, and tuck the

    other down behind the headlight.

    5) Place the black foam sock over the cold air inlet tube you removed from

    the airbox side and zip tie out of the way.

     

    225, 180 or VW with front feeds:

     

    1) Mount as above (180 or VW applications will have a silicone hose spacer

    in the filter end to match up to the 2 3/4 inch MAF)

    2) Most of the pics for this have been pretty well documented here:

    http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/cai_and_...shack_3_mark_2/

    The only tricky part is cutting a little sheet metal to the left of the

    fender liner screw hole as seen here:

    http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/cai_and_...2/dscf0145.html

    This is easily done with tin snips and then dressed up a bit with a dremel

    or die grinder. Cut until you can fit the hose in there without interfering

    with the fender liner when re-installed.

    The feed horns are simple parts available at Home Depot. The angle bracket

    shown holding the assembly to the car is from the garage door dept. (Track

    bracket). It's slotted and sized perfectly for this. There's even a

    threaded stud on the car to mount it too! You can also use the stock IC

    Bracket that used to mount there for support. Commercial air inlet ducts

    probably will not work here as there is VERY little room between the inlets

    and where the hose has to go 90 degrees to head up to the box. None will fit

    according to my measurements.

     

    Cleaning

     

    I've noticed that if you use front mounted feeds, a lot of stuff is sucked

    up into the box and the inverted part of the cone gets dirty fast. I'd

    clean every 3,000 miles under these circumstances.

     

    Non force fed, you're probably good for 10-15K or so. K&N's actually work a

    little better with some miles on them

     

    To remove filter, take the box out of the car, remove the vinyl edging from

    the filter side and the whole endcap with filter attached can be removed.

    Follow the K&N procedures fro cleaning, Lightly oil, and re-assemble.

     

    That's pretty much it! Go out and drive and let me know what you think.

    The car will need a little time to adapt to the different flow

    characteristics. The box is also quiet. You may consider removing the

    plastic vanes in the MAF housing also as this is a big restriction in the

    inlet system. Read this article to find out more:

    http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0629

     

    Let me know how they work for you! Questions, I can be reached most anytime

    at (252) 327-7737

    ----- Original Message -----

    From: "jc de fusco" <quitproquo1@hotmail.com>

    To: <ssheron@earthlink.net>

    Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 11:49 AM

    Subject: TTDA